Beijing Expert

Heritage: Yungang Caves

From thumb-sized figurines to a 17m colossus, the Buddhist carvings at Yungang are one of the most spectacular holy sites in China.

Clustered in groups, the Yungang Caves (yúngǎng shíkū 云冈石窟) are meant to be viewed as a whole. This endeavor will take a few hours, but considering the carvings took almost half a century and 40,000 laborers to complete, the few hours spent exploring these majestic caves is time well-spent. Of the numerous artistic masterpieces that Buddhism has germinated in China in the past 2,000 years, the caves at Yungang are among the most profound.

The caves are located 16km west of Datong in northern Shanxi Province. A notch south of Inner Mongolia, this strategic location was once a cultural crossroad, with influences from India, Central Asia and Mongolia. In AD 368 a group called the Tangut (tuòbá拓跋) made Datong the capital of their Northern Wei dynasty. The Tanguts were fervent Buddhists and began work on the caves in 453, ending around 494 when the Northern Wei moved their capital to Luoyang and continued their devotional work at the Longmen Caves.

Over the centuries, the region’s fortunes have wavered. Datong is now an industrial city and an important coal production center. Situated on the Loess Plateau, the old capital is sometimes referred to as the “Sea of Coal.” Convoys of coal-laden trucks and swarms of bicycles clog the flat road to the mountain.

Once out of the city the traffic begins to thin out and the Wuzhou Hills ripple into view. Stone watch towers that have guarded China’s northern border for thousands of years are silhouetted against the horizon. Amid such sparse surroundings, caves full of Buddhas in fanciful poses come into view. Though the caves are famous for their depictions of the Buddha, other celestial beings are also represented. There are minutely detailed bodhisattvas and apsaras. Some caves are guarded by stone soldiers and others are covered with exuberant designs painted onto walls and ceilings.

The caves extend 1km from east to west and are divided into three major clusters. The grouping of the caves is seemingly haphazard, but it’s possible to follow stylistic changes in the carvings as influences ebbed and flowed. Persian, Indian, even Greek and Byzantine influences can be seen in the rock carvings from the weapons, music instruments and clothing displayed. (more…)

Once a remote outpost reached only by the most pious of pilgrims who traveled for months with wills steeled by devotion, Wutai Shan remains a hidden treasure for those seeking true contemplation.

Wutai Shan’s name means “five terraces,” which accurately describes the five flat peaks of this sacred spot – north, east, south, west and central peak. In the quiet valleys between the peaks lay a smattering of ancient temples, twisting trails and awe-inspiring views.

The major sights at Wutai Shan are rather spread out, forcing one to indulge in the gorgeous scenery that surrounds the five terraces. This also means that no one sight is overwhelmed with tour groups. Wutai Shan’s temples are an eclectic mix of Han Buddhist and Tibetan and Mongolian Lamaist traditions, making the mountain one of the best places in China to view Buddhist architecture. (more…)

Heritage: the Ancient City of Pingyao

The past is alive in Pingyao. Whereas other cities have embraced modernity often at the expense of their historical heritage, Pingyao tenaciously holds onto its past.

As dawn breaks and the morning sun bathes Pingyao’s gray city walls in warm tones, you find yourself flung back in time, as your eyes behold a Ming dynasty fortress in all its imposing glory. Watchtowers, cast iron cannons, intimidating wooden gates and sturdy walls render an impenetrable feel. And then the city wakes up. Narrow alleys that coil around time-honored courtyard homes fill up with its 480,000 denizens. Shops open their doors to reveal modern cashier equipment perched on antique tabletops. Bustling about are bicycles, rickshaws and scooters. Here in Pingyao, modernity lives with centuries old relics.

The old walled city is an architectural treasure trove. Civic buildings, private homes and streets are well preserved in Ming and Qing styles. Few buildings rise above two stories. Several are adorned with splendid eave roofs, intricately latticed windows, hand-painted glass lanterns and ornate wood. (more…)

Inner Mongolia has the lure of open grassy plains, herds of horses and sheep roaming freely while nomadic herdsmen watch over their flock, and a stretch of blue sky that eventually touches the green plains far off in the horizon.

Hohhot, the capital of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, may not immediately stir images of a rough and ready frontier, but what this cosmopolitan city does offer is a gateway to the majesty of the grasslands which lie just beyond the city. The sights within the city shouldn’t be dismissed either. Once a political and cultural center, the relics of the past are strewn throughout. More than 36 ethnic groups live in Hohhot’s confines, with Mongolians making up about 9% of the population.

Bone fragments of early humans who lived in the area as early as 500,000 years ago have been found; these early ancestors are thought to be contemporaries of Peking Man. The first permanent establishment began about 2,300 years ago during the Warring States Period when the King of Zhao built the city – Yunzhong in the area. The merger of a 16th century Mongolian settlement and a city founded by Ming emperor Wanli has become present day Hohhot.

Though no longer apparent, the city was once a center of Buddhism with over 50 temples, although many are now in ruins. The Dazhao Temple (dàzhāo 大召), “zhao” means temple in Mongolian, was built in 1580 and is home to a 2.5m tall silver Buddha which the 3rd Dalai Lama came to personally bless in 1586. The 30,000m² complex is an interesting mix of Tibetan and Han architectural traditions.

The Xilitu Temple (xílìtú zhāo 席力图召), only 100m away from the Dazhao Temple is the largest and prettiest temple. It was built from 1567 to 1619 and has seen continual expansion. The 4th Dalai Lama’s teacher was the former abbot of this Lama temple and upon the accession of the 4th Dalai Lama; the temple was greatly expanded in honor of his teacher. The temple complex is mostly of traditional Han Chinese design, but the Dajing Hall (dàjīng táng 大经堂) features Tibetan styling. In the southeast corner is a 15m high tower. During the regularly held Buddhist festivals, colorful dancers wear intricate Tibetan style masks. (more…)

Antique markets and scrumptious snacks make Tianjin a nice getaway destination. Spend a few days exploring the city’s narrow alleys, browsing its antique markets and sampling its famous snacks.

Over 600 years old, Tianjin, the largest port city in north China lies on the coast of the Bohai Sea. The city continues a legacy that’s both ancient and modern, Chinese and Western. Most of all, the city is known among Chinese cities for its colonial buildings in the former concession areas that still retain a European air of elegance.

There are over a 1,000 concession era buildings in Tianjin, the construction of which began in 1858 when the Qing court was forced to sign the Treaty of Tianjin allowing for the establishment of concessions in the city. Britain, France, Japan, Germany, Russia, Belgium, Italy and Austria divided parts of Tianjin. Each nation created their own self-sustaining walled enclaves, where their citizens could forget they were far from their native soil.

Walking down the Fifth Avenue or Chifeng Lu is like strolling down an old black and white movie. There are more than 230 buildings of English, French and Italian styles on Fifth Avenue alone. French buildings stand out among the crowd, especially on Chifeng Lu, which was the heart of the French zone. From Central Park, which used to be a French garden, six lanes branch out into downtown shopping areas. (more…)

Heritage: Imperial Summer Villa, Eight Outer Temples

Lush forests, bleak rock formations and unique temples make a trip to Chengde an outdoor adventure and cultural tour.

If you thought the Summer Palace was a nice place to escape the city swelter, then you should head further north to Chengde, a town that boasts the largest imperial summer retreat complex in China. Known as the Imperial Summer Villa (bìshǔ shānzhuāng 避暑山庄), “escape the heat mountain villa,” the park has been Chengde’s main attraction since 1703. Set in a mountain valley and surrounded by an ancient wall, the parkland includes its own lake, pine forests, hunting ground and pavilions.

The town of Chengde itself sprung up only to support the imperial entourage that set up camp there every summer and has never lost the feel of a tourist destination. Radiating from the southern gate of the Imperial Summer Villa, modern Chengde is small, but has a lively street scene with vendors and markets and pleasant tree lined lanes. Crossing the Wulie River on the only bridge into town, you’ll find Chengde is a relaxed town far from the din and bustle of Beijing. These days travelers don’t come just to escape the summer heat, but also for Chengde’s clean mountain air.

When the weather is still warm, people of all ages come to hang out in the Town Square, flying kites and playing badminton well past dusk. The square on Nanyingzi Da Jie is the heart of the town and a fine place to sit and people watch. Continuing north along the road is a towering statue of Qing emperor Kangxi on horseback guarding the city’s largest traffic circle. Close to the statue is Lizhengmen Da Jie which curves close to the Imperial Summer Villa wall with grassy spaces that make for pleasant walks past the two main gates of the park. The eastern edge of town is bound by the Wulie River, a broad gentle waterway with views across to the hills that tumble right down to its banks. Along much of the length of the river is a waterfront park with winding paths, pine trees and rocks sculptures – another fine place for a stroll. If it’s hot, you might try the public swimming area just upstream from the city’s main bridge.

Besides the famed Imperial Summer Villa, Chengde also boasts the Eight Outer Temples (wàibāmiào 外八庙), built during the reigns of Emperor Kangxi and his grandson Qianlong. There were once 12 temples, but today only eight remain open to visitors. In its heyday, the temples had imperial patronage, and supported a large and vibrant spiritual community. The eight temples are all set in the hills north of the town center where the mountain scenery alone makes it worth the trip, not to mention the amazing Buddhist art.

One of the highlights of the eight temples is the enchanting golden statue of Guanyin, the Bodhisattva of Mercy, at Temple of Universal Tranquility (pǔníng sì 普宁寺). At 22m tall and with 42 arms, her statue is a figure that’s not easily forgotten. Climb a ladder to get a closer look at the Bodhisattva, one of the most stunning statues of its kind. The temple was built by Emperor Qianlong to commemorate his victory over Mongolian tribes and mixes Han Chinese and Tibetan ethnic styles. (more…)

The seaside resort town of Beidaihe is famous for its beaches, while in neighboring Shanhaiguan you’ll find relics of the past in this ancient military stronghold.

While children build imperial sand castles on the beach, parents lounge around in their swimsuits and buy ice cream from one of the many street vendors. Along the beach, streets are lined with outdoor seafood restaurants, shell shops and hawkers selling their wares. In the summer months, the seaside resort town of Beidaihe, about 280km from Beijing, comes alive with wealthy Chinese families taking a break from city life. Most people come here for the beach, the sunshine and the fresh air. But there’s a lot more to Beidaihe than sun and sand – away from the beach, you’ll find ancient temples and mountain parks.

At the turn of the 19th century, Beidaihe was transformed from a tiny fishing village into a summer resort for European diplomats, missionaries and businessmen from Beijing and Tianjin. Today it has opened up to local and international tourists alike, who flock here in droves during the hottest summer months.

Beidaihe’s sandy beaches stretch for 10km along the Bohai Sea. Though the beaches are jam-packed in July and August, it’s still possible to find a few quiet coves where you can escape the crowds. The coastline is divided into three main beaches: Middle Beach (zhōng hǎitān 中海滩), East Mountain (dōng shān 东山) and West Beach (xī hǎitān 西海滩). Of the three beaches, Middle Beach (which is made up of many small beaches, separated by rocky outcrops) is the most popular and it’s easy to find drinks, snacks and souvenirs – and be bombarded by hackers pushing bracelets and shells. West Beach is similar, though a little quieter. East Mountain features long stretches of beach where you can bask in some hard-to-find privacy. Tiger Rocks (lǎohǔ shí老虎石), in the central beach area, is a popular spot for locals to gather and fish, fly kites and unwind. From a distance, the rocks look like a group of tigers bathing in the sea. Pigeon’s Nest (gēzi wō 鸽子窝) over at East Mountain is a good spot to catch the sunrise as it slowly peers over the sea’s horizon. (more…)

Matteo Ricci, who lived from 1552 to 1610, was an Italian Jesuit priest who struggled for 30 years to bring Christianity to China. Few missionaries have ever managed to win the respect of Chinese officials, but Ricci managed to gain the confidence and admiration of the emperor himself.

In the 16th century all traces of earlier missions to China had vanished. The Nestorians of the 7th century and Catholic monks of the 13th and 14th centuries had been forgotten and the few priests who were admitted into the country were ignored, or worse, punished for their proselytizing.

Coming to Guangzhou through the Portuguese enclave of Macau, Ricci realized that he would have to study China’s language and customs if he was to have any success spreading the gospel. He also shaved his head to appear similar to a Buddhist monk hoping this would eliminate other obstructions to his preaching. (more…)

The 18th century saw international trade with China blossom, but there was one problem: Western countries had little that pre-industrial China wanted. This trade imbalance frustrated British merchants, who needed to supply an increasing demand for a new drink – tea, which was rapidly becoming popular. They found their answer in the poppy fields of colonial India.

Opium-smoking had been banned by the imperial Chinese government in 1729, but British traders bribed the local officials, who turned a blind eye to their activities, and started shipping large quantities of the drug from British India to the southern Chinese port. Their intention was to create a nation of addicts and thus, an endless market.

2,330 chests of opium were imported in 1788, but that number had risen to 17,257 by 1830. Opium dens spread throughout the country. Officials, often addicts themselves, found it impossible to refuse the sweeteners offered by the now-wealthy British companies. (more…)

Some basic etiquette rules that should be followed when in Tibet include:

Never touch the head of a Tibetan, the head is considered a sacred part of the body.

Show proper respect in the temples, don’t wear noisy shoes, drink alcohol, smoke or make unnecessary noise.

Don’t put your arms around someone’s shoulders. (more…)