Beijing Expert

Alleyways (hútòng 胡同) and courtyard homes (sìhéyuàn 四合院) have been the signature features of Beijing’s urban landscape since the Ming dynasty. These homes traditionally comprised buildings built around an enclosed courtyard, but many have been subdivided in modern times. The narrowness of the alleyways and of many courtyard homes discourages heavy traffic and encourages residents to live their lives on the street, fostering a strong sense of community. The pace of life in these neighborhoods is less hurried than on Beijing’s broad modern avenues; the noises less grating. The hutongs are like villages within the megalopolis. As you wander through them, you may feel as though you have stepped back in time.

Many hutongs have disappeared in the past decade to make way for modern apartment buildings and wider roads. Fortunately, some historic neighborhoods are being preserved, as you’ll discover if you take the walks described below. Besides winding you along some of Beijing’s most beautiful hutongs, these walks will take you to some of the capital’s best sights. We suggest going on foot since this will allow you to soak in the atmosphere, move at your own pace and observe the small details that make hutongs unique.

Renting a bicycle is also a good option, this way you can cover more ground and keep your feet relatively happy. Bikes for rent can be found at several prominent places in the Qianhai/Houhai areas, you’ll have to leave a deposit, but the hourly fees are very reasonable. Tandem bicycles are also available. If you’re not into biking, you can hire a pedi-cab. One reputable pedi-cab company that operates tours in the Qianhai and Houhai areas is Hutong Pedi-cab Tours (běijīng hútòng yóu 北京胡同游, 6615 9097 or 6400 2787). Tours cost RMB 180 per person and leave every day at 9am and 2pm, the tours last 2.5 to 3 hours. They start on Qianhai Xi Jie just across the street from the north gate of Baihai Park; the company’s riders wear distinctive orange vests and badges.

LAKESIDE HUTONG STROLL
The charming hutongs around Houhai and Qianhai lakes meander through quiet neighborhoods and parks along the lakeshore. The hutongs, despite being a tourist attraction, are living communities enclosed within a warren-like maze of narrow lanes. You can see residents chatting over a pot of tea on whicker chairs while their songbirds chitter their musical tunes. Strolling through the Houhai and Qianhai areas will take you by grand homes, hip cafés and the centuries old Bell and Drum Towers. A thorough exploration of the area will take about 3 hours, though 2 hours will be more than enough time to get a good look and feel for life in a hutong. While you’re there, it’s hard to get lost, just walk in any direction and you’ll come across a major landmark. There are numerous cafés along the way, drop into any one of them for a drink or a bite to eat. The area across from the north gate of Beihai Park, and where Qianhai Lake meets Houhai Lake has lots of eating and drinking options, any of them make perfect rest stops.

Drum Tower 鼓楼 gǔlóu
Bell Tower 钟楼 zhōnglóu
The impressive Drum Tower was initially built in AD 1272 during the reign of Kublai Khan. Its drums were beaten at fixed hours to mark the time. Climb up to the top floor for a great bird’s-eye view of the surrounding hutongs and the urban sprawl beyond. Inside is a collection of enormous Chinese drums on the 2nd floor and a shop selling Tibetan curios on the 1st floor. Good views are also on offer at the striking Bell Tower, which boasts a 63-ton bell that’s rung on important occasions like Chinese New Year.

Address: Di’anmen Da Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区地安门大街
Opening hours: 9am to 5pm
￥: 20 for the Drum Tower; 10 for the Bell Tower

Prince Gong’s Mansion 恭王府 gōng wángfǔ
It was good to be the Prince. Built in 1777 by a venal official, this 60,000m² compound was the home of Prince Gong, the last emperor’s father. Landscaped with ponds, arched bridges, rock gardens and pavilions, it offers a glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and famous during the Qing dynasty. In summer, extracts from Peking Operas are occasionally performed outdoors or in the large hall.

Address: 17 Qianhai Xi Jie, Xicheng District 西城区前海西街17号
Phone: 6616 8149
Opening hours: 8:30am to 5pm
￥: 5

ANTIQUE MARKETS HUTONG WALK
The hutongs of Liulichang and Dazhalan lie in commercial areas. Poking around the old shops in Liulichang and Dazhalan is one of this area’s many attractions. If you decide to buy something, be sure to do some comparative shopping in nearby stores before pulling out your wallet.

The Liulichang (liúlíchǎng 琉璃厂) neighborhood spreads across both sides of Nanxinhua Jie. Scholars and artists have frequented Liulichang’s art shops and bookstores for centuries. Impoverished students from the provinces would sell their books and paintings here to finance their journey home. Nowadays, local merchants also cater to tourists, selling antiques, reproductions and souvenirs. Like the objects for sale, the neighborhood itself evokes the past since it has been restored to its early-20th century appearance.

Walking along Liulichang Xi Jie is like strolling through a living museum, the hutong filled with shops selling antiques and antique reproductions, kites, drums, posters from the 1930’s, Mao memorabilia, contemporary paintings and more. The most famous emporium is Rongbaozhai (róngbǎozhāi 荣宝斋, 19 Liulichang Xi Jie 琉璃厂西街19号), which for years has specialized in supplies for the scholar, gentleman and artist. These includes ink stones – shallow basins in which ink blocks are mixed with water – calligraphy brushes, seals, paper and scrolls. The shop’s brush sets, lacquer containers and paintings might make good gifts for the folks back home.

A branch of the famous Cathay Bookshop (zhōngguó shūdiàn 中国书店) can be found here (57 Liulichang Xi Jie 琉璃厂西街57号). On the ground floor is an exhibit of photographs of pre-Revolutionary Beijing, ancient maps, old books and more.

The Liulichang Dong Jie hutong runs east to west and is lined with a myriad of antique and imitation antique shops. On offer, running the spectrum from kitsch to truly collectible, are shadow puppets, ceramics, Peking opera masks, Buddha statues, paper lanterns, cloisonné, swords, opium pipes, paintings and more. It’s hard to recommend one store over another but Jiguge (jígǔ gé 汲古阁, 136 Liulichang Dong Jie 琉璃厂东街136号) has a good reputation. If you need a break from antiques, step into the Tian Fu Teashop (65 Liulichang Dong Jie 琉璃厂东街65号), where you’ll undoubtedly be offered a complimentary cup.

Nestled in the Tiaozhou hutong is the tiny Tiaozhou Hutong Mosque (tiáozhou hútòng qīngzhēnsì 笤帚胡同清真寺). This quaint mosque is not open to non-Muslims but you may be able to pop your head in for a quick peak. South of the mosque, at the intersection, is a Muslim bakery.

East of Liulichang is Dazhalan (dàshílànr 大栅栏), a wide pedestrian mall that’s bustling with activity. Also known as Dashilanr (pronounced da-shi-lar); this is Beijing’s oldest commercial street and is crowded with long-established shops selling clothing, fabric, shoes, Chinese medicine and more. The neighboring hutongs are also worth exploring. Look up while you stroll: some of the buildings on Dazhalan have turn-of-the-century gables and other architectural accents.

The impressive building with sloping Chinese roofs and two statues of mythical beasts (qílín 麒麟) outside its entrance is Tongrentang (tóngréntáng 同仁堂, 24 Dazhalan Jie 大栅栏街24号). Established in 1669, Tongrentang is China’s most famous purveyor of traditional Chinese medicine. On the 2nd floor are pharmaceutical ingredients like deer antler and ginseng, the latter often imported from the US. (One package of “President” brand ginseng features a portrait of George Washington). The 3rd floor sells imported medicine and vitamins.

Towards the east-end, on the north side of Dazhalan, is Ruifuxiang (rùifúxiáng 瑞蚨祥, 5 Dazhalan Jie 大栅栏街5号, 6302 1654), which has been selling silk here since 1893. The fashions are a little stodgy, but the building, with its carved panels of flowers and cranes, is worth admiring. Next door is the gaudy green façade of Yichenghou Department Store.

Before Liberation, Zhubaoshi Jie (zhūbǎoshì jiē 珠宝市街), in the east end of Dazhanlan, was Beijing’s major theater district. Today, it’s lined with small retailers stocking clothes, shoes, glasses and toys.

In a peppermint-green-and-white building at 5 Zhubaoshi Jie is the Qianxiangyi (qiānxiángyì sīchóu yǒuxiàn zérèn gōngsī 北京谦祥丝绸有限责任公司, 6301 6658). Established in 1840, it’s one of the most reputable silk shops in Beijing. The ground floor has a huge selection of bolts that are sold by the meter, while the 2nd floor has shirts, negligees, pajamas and gorgeous tapestries.

The tombs of 13 Ming dynasty emperors and their consorts are scattered in a gorgeous valley 45km northwest of Beijing. All but three of the Ming emperors are buried here. The first Ming emperor lies in Nanjing, the tomb of the second emperor remains unknown as he had his throne usurped by his uncle and another emperor was considered illegitimate and wasn’t given the honor of an imperial tomb.

The site for the Ming Tombs (shísān líng 十三陵) was carefully chosen as the imperial cemetery by fengshui masters after careful examination of the surrounding area on orders from the indefatigable Emperor Yongle, who also commissioned the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven. Once a year, sitting emperors would come here to perform extravagant rituals for their ancestors in order to keep their spirits placated.

For the history conscious and family centered Chinese, filial piety, in life and in death was of utter importance – to show disrespect to your father was a capital crime. Entrenched by Confucian values and the belief that ancestors require the occasional sign of deference, lest they cause trouble in the living world, ancestor worship became one of the central tenets of Chinese religious practices.

The Ming Tombs is an example of the importance laid upon showing proper filial piety and the self-grandeur of the emperors, many of whom begun construction of their tombs as soon as they ascended the throne, with construction ending only when they moved in.

The Memorial Arch (páifāng 牌坊), built in 1540, marks the entrance to the valley. At 12m-high, 31m-wide and sporting six intricately carved arches, this is the first indicator that no expense was spared when the emperors constructed their final self-monuments. Continuing along the path leads to the Grand Red Gate (dà hóngmén 大红门), which was built in 1426. At this point all worshippers had to dismount from their horses and carriages and walk the rest of the way. Further behind this gate is a Stele Pavilion (bēi tíng 碑亭) that’s held up by four large ornate columns. Inside this pavilion stands China’s largest stele, which is carved with the names of past Ming emperors. Exquisitely carved, this stele was completed in 1435 and is held up by mythical turtles, a symbol of longevity.

Once past the pavilion is the mythical Spirit Way (shéndào 神道). The path is lined with animals and mystical beasts like the qilin (qílín 麒麟) with horned heads and scaly bodies, seers of wisdom and the xiezhi (xièzhì 獬豸) with lion heads and horse bodies, seers of justice. There are also four statues each of military, civilian and imperial officials, who serve the emperor in his afterlife.

Of the 13 tombs, two are open for viewing, Changling (chánglíng 长陵) and Dingling (dìnglíng 定陵). The tombs were built with symbolism in mind. In front of the tombs are square courtyards representing earth, this is where the above ground buildings are and it was in these buildings where the memorial rituals were performed. Behind the courtyards are the circular tomb mounds representing heaven.

The Dingling Tomb is the burial site of the Wanli emperor, the 13th Ming emperor who ruled for 48 years until his death in 1620. Two of his empresses are also buried here along with him. The extremely well-built tomb took over 600,000 laborers six years to complete. Excavation of the tomb occurred from 1956 to 1958, the underground chamber was discovered through sheer luck when archeologists discovered a stone tablet left by the original builders. The stone tablet gave instructions on how to find the tomb – this was necessary when the tomb was re-opened for the burial of the emperor. Opening the tomb doors was also exceedingly difficult, the designers created an ingenious door locking mechanism that sealed the doors behind them. Around the Dingling Tomb are exhibition halls displaying various artifacts founds in the tomb and the underground burial chamber itself is open for public viewing.

The Yongle emperor and his empress are buried in the Changling Tomb. This tomb was the first and largest of the Ming tombs. Completed in 1427, this complex took 28 years to complete. Exquisitely built, this tomb features one of the largest halls in China. Huge columns and architecture along the same lines as the grandiose Forbidden City allow the above ground portions of this tomb to cast the emperor’s long shadow even in death.

Address: Changping District 昌平区
Phone: 6076 1423
Opening Hours: 8am to 6pm, peak-season; 8:30am to 5pm, off-season
￥：30 peak-season, 20 off-season for the Spirit Way; 60 peak-season, 40 off-season for Dingling Tomb; 45 peak-season, 30 off-season for Changling Tomb

The Great Wall (wànlǐ chángchéng 万里长城) snakes its way across northern China, from the Yellow Sea and past the Gobi Desert for some 6,000km. While it’s not visible from the moon as has been claimed, it’s still a remarkable piece of engineering and is the most famous symbol of China.

The genesis of the Great Wall dates to the Warring States period from 475 to 221 BC, when Chinese feudal kingdoms built earthen ramparts to defend against nomadic invaders. It was under the fierce emperor Qin Shihuang, who unified China in 221 BC that the Great Wall really began to take shape. He conscripted some 300,000 laborers to work for ten years on joining the various pre-existing sections into a single fortified wall. The suffering of the workers who toiled in freezing winters and scorching summers became legendary. As dynasty came into being and passed into history, the Great Wall was continuously repaired and extended.

The sections of the Great Wall near Beijing were renovated during the Ming dynasty, whose leaders spent a century strengthening and extending the Wall to the Yellow Sea. The previous ramparts, which were made of stones, packed earth and wood, were covered by Ming builders with bricks. They built crenellations to protect archers, widened the Wall so it could accommodate five horses abreast, and added many watchtowers. A system of beacons lit from tower to tower ensured that enemy troop movements were swiftly relayed to headquarters.

Despite such defensive features, the Great Wall failed in its purpose of keeping out invaders. It was breached several times, notably by the armies of Genghis Khan in 1215 and by Manchu troops in 1644. Conversely, the Great Wall was a tremendous success in forging a sense of nationhood since it marked the physical boundary between China and abroad, and the psychological boundary between civilization and chaos. Scaling forbidding landscapes of mountains and deserts, the Great Wall was also a triumph of the emperor’s will over nature.

There are three major sections of the Great Wall open to tourists near Beijing: Badaling (bādálǐng 八达岭), Mutianyu (mùtián yù 慕田峪) and Simatai (sīmǎtái 司马台). All three are built on steep terrain so it’s a good idea to wear comfortable shoes and bring water. This advice holds especially true when going to the Simatai section or to the “Wild Wall” sections that haven’t been restored. Many ex-pats enjoy hiking along the “Wild Wall” but it’s not for the faint of heart: climbing conditions can be arduous and there are no signposts, so hikers will need a good map or a guide.

Whatever section you choose to visit, the simplest way to get there is to hire a car and driver for the day. Depending on the type of vehicle and the distance to be covered, expect to pay anywhere from RMB 500 to 1,000 (plus an additional RMB 400 for an English-speaking guide). Another option is to join a guided tour, these cost around RMB 250 to 400 per person. Both private cars and tour bus reservations can be booked through hotels and travel agencies like CITS, CYTS and BTG.

Badaling Section 八达岭长城 bādálǐng chángchéng
Only 70km away by superhighway, Badaling is the closest section of the Great Wall to Beijing and can be visited in half a day. Moreover, its proximity to the Ming Tombs means both sites can be seen in a single outing. Badaling was completely restored after 1957. It has a chairlift and fast food restaurants and can be very crowded with hawkers and tourists, but all that fades away once you leave the parking area and begin to walk along the Wall.

Address: Yanqing County 延庆县
Phone: 6912 1235, 6912 1737
Opening hours: 6am to 6pm
￥: 80 peak-season 60 off-season

Mutianyu Section 慕田峪长城 mùtiányù chángchéng
Mutianyu is located some 90km north of Beijing, and like Badaling, is a recently renovated section that’s very popular. Mutianyu lies in rugged territory and reaching the Wall from the main gate involves a stre

nuous climb up a steep stairway, but fortunately there’s a chairlift. Once on top, the views of the Wall undulating down wooded canyons and up mountain ridges are breathtaking.

Address: Huairou County 怀柔县
Phone: 6162 6873
Opening hours: 7am to 6pm
￥: 35

Simatai Section 司马台长城 sīmǎtái chángchéng
The Simatai section is a dramatic testimony to Ming engineering skills with one section as steep as 85 degrees. Only partially restored, Simatai allows athletic visitors who climb past the first watchtowers to see the Wall in its wild, crumbling state. Less intrepid visitors can take a gondola. Simatai is 110km northwest of Beijing.

Address: Gubeikou Town, Miyun County 密云县古北口镇
Phone: 6903 1051
Opening hours: 8am to 9pm
￥: 30

The Lama Temple (yōnghé gōng 雍和宫) is an island of Buddhism in the heart of the concrete jungle. Monks in wine-colored robes live, study and pray in its pleasant gardens and halls. Decorated with delicate scrolls and massive icons, its buildings are a hybrid of Tibetan, Mongolian and Han architectural styles. The Lama Temple is a tranquil spot, except during the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) when it seems all of China’s Buddhists throng its altars to burn bushels of incense and pray for good fortune.

This compound was originally built for Count Yin Zhen who resided here until 1723 when he moved to the Forbidden City to become Emperor Yongzheng. After his death, his devout son, Emperor Qianlong, converted the site into a Buddhist lamasery of the Yellow Hat sect, a sect that’s mainly associated with Tibet.

A walkway leads from the ticket booth through the garden and several archways to the temple grounds. After passing through the gateway at the end of the garden, visitors will notice a small Bell Tower on the right, and Drum Tower on the left. Ahead is the first of five worship halls, the Hall of Heavenly Kings (tiānwáng diàn 天王殿) that contains a large statue of Maitreiya, the Future Budhha with the four Heavenly Kings on the side. In the courtyard behind the hall is a pond with a bronze mandala depicting the Buddhist paradise. Next is the Hall of Harmony (dàxióng bǎodiàn 大雄宝殿), which is filled with prayer wheels and Buddhas of the Past, Present and Future, flanked by statues of 18 arhats, Buddhist “saints” who have reached Nirvana but have returned to help others. Formerly the emperor-to-be’s living room, the Hall of Eternal Blessing (yǒngyòu diàn 永佑殿) houses statues of the Buddha of Longevity and Buddha of Medicine, to who believers appeal for long lives and good health.

The fourth hall, the Hall of the Wheel of Law (fǎlún diàn 法轮殿) is where the monks study scripture and pray in the presence of a 12m-tall bronze statue of Tsong Khapa, the founder of the Yellow Hat sect. Behind this statue is a sculpture of a hill on which stand 500 arhats made of gold, silver, copper, iron and tin. Elegant frescos illustrating the life of the Buddha adorn the east and west walls and there’s a rare sand mandala preserved under glass on the west side of the building. The Lama Temple’s crown awaits in the Pavilion of 10,000 Blessings (wànfú gé 万福阁), the last and tallest worship hall. Inside is an extraordinary statue of Budhha standing 18m-tall, with an additional 8m underground, which was carved from a single Tibetan sandalwood tree. Satin prayer scarves flow from his giant hands.

As you retrace your steps to the entrance, pop into the minor halls that flank the courtyards, some of which contain Tibetan Buddhist deities covered in scarves to conceal their passionate embraces. From the main entrance, it is but a short walk to the Temple of Confucius (kǒng miào 孔庙).

Address: 12 Yonghegong Da Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区雍和宫大街12号
Phone: 6404 4499
Opening hours: 9am to 4:30pm
￥: 25

With its handsome buildings, pretty scenery and tumultuous history, the Summer Palace (yíhé yuán 颐和园) is a wonderful place to explore. As long ago as the Yuan dynasty, officials set up their private gardens in the scenic area, but the Summer Palace didn’t take on its present appearance until the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing dynasty. He deepened the park’s manmade lake and added buildings to serve as a “country home” for his mother, though it would be the Empress Dowager Cixi who would have the biggest impact on the palace’s appearance.

During the Second Opium War in 1860, the Summer Palace was looted and partially destroyed by French and British forces. In 1886, Cixi diverted funds earmarked to build a modern Chinese navy and spent the money on endowing the Summer Palace with a marble boat-shaped pavilion and other extravagances throughout the palace. She also gave the palace its current name, yiheyuan, which means the “Garden for Cultivating Harmony,” an ill-fitting name as the Summer Palace would inspire little harmony. China soon paid for her imperial lavishness when a modern Japanese fleet destroyed its navy in 1895.

In 1900, Western armies again unharmo-niously sacked the Summer Palace, this time in retaliation for the Boxer Rebellion. Undeterred, Cixi again rebuilt this pleasure dome which had become her fulltime residence. She died in 1908, but the imprint of this cunning and powerful woman, who ruled China from behind the scenes for years, remains very strong on the buildings today.

Most of the major sights are concentrated in the northern part of the compound. Near the East Palace Gate, the entry point for most tourists is the Hall of Benevolent Longevity (rénshòu diàn 仁寿殿), where Cixi held court on her hardwood throne. A short walk away, on the shore of Kunming Lake (kūnmíng hú 昆明湖), is the Hall of Jade Ripples (yùlán táng 玉澜堂) where Emperor Guangxu, Cixi’s nephew, was held under house arrest on Cixi’s orders for daring to undermine her authority. The Hall for Cultivating Happiness (déhé yuán 德和园) is the name of Cixi’s delightful private theater that was built for her 60th birthday. Nearby is a display that includes a Mercedes Benz, the first car imported into China. The Empress Dowager lived in the Hall of Happiness and Longevity (lèshòu táng 乐寿堂), which is decorated with many period pieces.

These private apartments open up to the most arresting construction in the Summer Palace, the Long Corridor (chángláng 长廊). More than 700m long and ending at the Marble Boat (shífǎng 石舫), this shaded walkway is decorated with some 10,000 painted scenes, each one different. Paths lead off from the Long Corridor to the temple complex atop Longevity Hill (wànshòu shān 万寿山), which includes the Buddhist Incense Tower (fóxiāng gé 佛香阁) and the tiled Temple of the Sea of Wisdom (zhìhuì hǎi 智慧海). The climb will be rewarded with sweeping views of the Summer Palace and the Fragrant Hills (xiāng shān 香山).

The vast Summer Palace compound centers on Kunming Lake. In summer, visitors can explore the lake on boat, and skate across its frozen expanse in the winter. The highly photogenic 17 Arch Bridge (shíqīkǒng qiáo 十七孔桥) links the lake’s eastern shore to South Lake Island. The most pleasurable way to escape the crowds is to take a leisurely stroll on the willow-shaded paths and arched bridges that encircle the lake – bring your camera and a picnic.

Address: Haidian District 海淀区
Phone: 6288 1144
Opening hours: 6:30am to 6pm, peak-season;7am to 5pm, off-season; 7am to 9pm, national holidays
￥: 80 peak-season (for full access)  60 off-season (for full access)

The Temple of Heaven (tiāntán 天坛) served Ming and Qing dynasty emperors as a vast sacred space to perform ceremonial rites on behalf of the Chinese nation. Prior to the winter solstice, the emperor would lead a solemn procession, which commoners were forbidden to witness, from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven. At first light on the winter solstice, after a night of fasting and ritual cleansing, the emperor would offer ritual sacrifices and make a report to heaven. He would also visit on the 15th day of the first lunar month to pray for a good harvest. The temple was vitally important to the imperial universe as it was the link between the emperor and Heaven.

The Temple of Heaven includes a large verdant park that’s worth visiting on its own, especially in the early morning when limber septuagenarians practice calisthenics. The Temple of Heaven incorporates several religious structures, the crown jewel of which is the Hall for the Prayer of Good Harvests (qǐnián diàn 祈年殿). The layout of the compound reflects its religious purpose and so adheres to geomantic precepts. For instance, the northern end of the park is curved while the southern end is square, reflecting the traditional Chinese conception of heaven as round and the earth as square. Likewise, the park gates are located at the four cardinal points.

The Circular Altar (huánqiū 圜丘) is the three-tiered structure closest to the southern gate. Built in 1530, the Circular Altar was where the emperor, facing north, gave heaven his report. It was acoustically designed to help the emperor’s words reach the cosmos. Indeed, the altar magnifies the voice of a speaker standing in its center, though only the speaker will hear this magnification, as sound waves bounce off the balustrades. Another interesting feature of the altar is that it was built with rows of marble slabs in multiples of the number 9, which was considered the most auspicious number. The first row has 9 slabs, the second 18, and so on.

Moving northward, the next compound is the Imperial Vault of Heaven (huángqióngyŭ 皇穹宇), which contained tablets of the emperor’s ancestors that were used in the solstice ceremony. The vault is surrounded by the Echo Wall (huíyīn bì 回音壁), which has marvelous acoustic properties. Its curvature acts as a parabola allowing two people to converse in quiet voices at a great distance from each other. However, on a crowded day when every visitor attempts this experience, all you may hear is a cacophonous muddle. The designers of the temple grounds incorporated numerous unique acoustic properties to the layout of the complex as there are many spots where sounds are amplified, echoed or redirected.

Circle around the outside of the vault after exiting and proceed north through a gate to the elevated walkway. As you walk, the Hall for the Prayer of Good Harvests will rise into view. This is where the emperor prayed to heaven on behalf of his subjects. This wooden tower was erected without a single nail, it’s held in place by an ingenious system of supporting beams and massive pillars. The design is also rich in symbolism. Topped by a golden orb, its cascading roof is blue, representing the color of heaven. The four central pillars represent the seasons, the 12 inner pillars symbolize the months, and the 12 outer pillars symbolize the 12 watches of the day. Inside the hall, on the ceiling, is a single golden dragon representing the emperor. Initially constructed in 1420, the Hall was set ablaze by a bolt of lightening in 1889 and was faithfully rebuilt with lumber imported from Oregon.

Address: Tiantan South Gate, Chongwen District 崇文区天坛南门
Phone: 6702 8866
Opening hours: 8am to 5pm for the buildings; 6am to 9pm for the park
￥: 50 peak-season (for full access), 30 peak-season (for sull access)

Beijing’s most elegant park is built around the bei hai (north lake). The lakes in Beijing are often mistakenly referred to as seas because the Mongolian word for lake sounds like “hai,” a homophone for the Chinese character for sea, which is also the character used in their names. Once exclusively restricted to the emperor and his court, Beihai Park’s (běihǎi gōngyuán 北海公园) charms include pavilions, gardens and a stunning Tibetan-style pagoda.

Beihai Park’s imperial connection began in the 13th century, when Kublai Khan chose the site for his palace, a marvelous structure according to Marco Polo. Little has survived of the Khan’s pleasure dome except an enormous green jade jar that was given to him in 1265 and was purportedly used to store his wine. You’ll find this 3.5-ton jar displayed in the Round City (tuán chéng 团城), a former royal barracks near the park’s main (southeast) entrance. The main structure in the Round City is the Hall of Receiving Light (chéngguāng diàn 承光殿), so named because the emperor would come here to watch fireworks. A Buddha given by Burma to the Empress Dowager Cixi is now exhibited there. The statue is carved of white jade and wears a crown and garment of gold sheet.

Jade Isle (qiónghuá dǎo 琼华岛) lies across the bridge from the Round City. In summer, lotus flowers bloom in the channel to the east of the bridge and this flowery motif is echoed on the bridge itself, which is decorated with carved lotus flowers and petals. At the foot of the manmade hill that dominates Jade Isle is the pleasant Yong’an Temple (yǒng’ān sì 永安寺).

Far more dramatic than the temple is the White Dagoba (báitǎ 白塔) that stands on top of the hill. Erected in 1651 in honor of a visiting Dalai Lama, it was flattened by an earthquake and later rebuilt. From a tiered base, it rises approximately 36m towards the sky and is said to contain Buddhist scriptures, robes and other sacred objects. Though visitors aren’t allowed inside the dagoba, they can inspect the Tibetan sutras are carved inside its front gate. The views of the city from atop the hill are dazzling.

Ringing the northwest shore of Jade Isle is the Painted Gallery (qióngdǎo chūnyīn bēi 琼岛春荫碑), a double-tiered covered veranda. Midway along the length of the gallery, near the boat dock, is the Hall of Rippling Waters (yī lán táng 漪澜堂) that’s home to the famous Fangshan Restaurant (fǎngshàn fànzhuāng 仿膳饭庄) and its elaborate imperial banquets.

You can reach the north side of Beihai by taking a boat to Five Dragon Pavilion (wǔlóng tíng 五龙亭) or walking around the park via the isle’s east bridge. Sticking out from the northwest shoreline, the Five Dragon Pavilion was built on 1543 for a Ming dynasty emperor who wanted a nice spot to fish and admire the moon. Neighboring Minor Western Heaven (xiǎoxītiān 小西天) is a square-shaped temple dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, which Emperor Qianlong built for his mother. Don’t miss the delightful botanical gardens in the park’s northwest corner that features a greenhouse and lotus-filled pools. By the northern exit is the Nine Dragon Screen (jiǔlóng bì 九龙壁), a 27m long structure covered in tiled dragons that was designed to ward off evil spirits, it was built in 1756.

It should be noted that historic monuments are only half the fun of visiting the park. Like all parks in Beijing, Beihai is a hive of fascinating human activity, especially in the morning when it’s overrun with kung fu masters wielding swords, couples waltzing, calligraphers writing poems on the pavement with water, choirs of senior citizens, badminton players and Peking opera singers who exercise their voice by screaming across the lake. What’s more, you can rent paddleboats when weather permits.

Address: 1 Wenjin Jie, Xicheng District 西城区文津街１号
Phone: 6403 1102
Opening hours: 9am to 9pm (though some buildings close earlier)
￥: 10 peak-season 5 off-season

The abode of 24 Ming and Qing emperors of the Celestial Empire, the Forbidden City (gùgōng 故宫) is a fittingly awe-inspiring sight. Enclosed behind its moat and 9.9m-high walls are 980 buildings, vast courtyards and long corridors that occupy a total area of 720,000m². It’s alleged that as many as 1,000,000 workers and 100,000 artisans participated in the construction of this imperial palace, which began in 1406 and was completed in 1420 during the reign of Ming dynasty emperor Yongle. Destroyed by fires and other calamities, many of the buildings were rebuilt and expanded during the Qing dynasty. The last emperor, Puyi, left the Forbidden City in 1924, 11 years after his abdication and the establishment of the Republic of China. After Puyi’s departure, the Forbidden City, which had long been off-limits to most mortals, was opened to the public, hence its current Chinese name, gugong bowuguan, meaning “The Palace Museum.”

Besides its massive scale and historical significance, the Forbidden City strikes the imagination by its design. Its clear lines, perfect proportions, and dramatic color scheme of vermilion walls, white marble terraces and staircases and brilliant yellow-tiled roofs – create one of the world’s most beautiful architectural complexes. It was built along a meridian line, from the Dragon’s throne, an axis can be drawn directly south through the many gates, right through to Qianmen and on. From his northern seat, the emperor could symbolically survey his entire kingdom.

Taking all this in requires time, at least 3 hours, and a comfortable pair of shoes. The English audio tour is highly insightful and features the suave voice of Roger Moore of James Bond fame. Readers interested in the Forbidden City’s past grandeur should watch The Last Emperor by Bernardo Bertolucci, a film that was largely shot on location.

The main entry point for the Forbidden City is the Meridian Gate (wǔmén 午门) which is a ten-minute walk due north from Tian’anmen Square, don’t confuse Meridian Gate with the the Gate of Heavenly Peace, above which hangs Mao’s portrait. The “Son of Heaven,” as the emperor was called, would come to the Meridian Gate to review armies and announce the new calendar. As you walk through Meridian Gate, know that in imperial times you would have been guilty of a capital offense as only the emperor could use this central archway. Officials and royal family members had to employ the side passageways.

Emerging from the Meridian Gate is a courtyard bisected by a canal in the shape of a bow that’s spanned by five marble bridges. On the far side of the canal is the Gate of Supreme Harmony (tàihé mén 太和门), which opens up to a second gigantic courtyard that held audiences of 100,000. On the north end of that courtyard is the first of three great ceremonial halls, the Hall of Supreme Harmony (tàihé diàn 太和殿). This is where the Emperor read important edicts, celebrated his birthday and appointed military leaders. Inside the hall is an elaborately decorated throne flanked by cloisonné cranes (symbolizing longevity) and gorgeous columns carved with dragons.

The second ceremonial hall, called the Hall of Middle Harmony (zhōnghé diàn 中和殿), was used by the emperor and his ministers as a staging area to prepare for official ceremonies. Directly behind it is the Hall of Preserving Harmony (bǎohé diàn 保和殿) Where Qing dynasty New Year’s Eve banquets were held. This edifice was also used as an imperial examination hall for top scholars seeking official positions.

After passing the Hall of Preserving Harmony, some visitors pause over a cappuccino at the Forbidden City’s Starbucks while others meander eastward in an area that served as the quarters for imperial attendants, including, at one point, an estimated 70,000 eunuchs. There are signs pointing towards the Hall of Clocks (zhōngbiǎo guǎn 钟表馆) and Hall of Jewelry (zhēnbǎo guǎn 珍宝馆) where antiques are exhibited.

Due north the Hall of Preserving Harmony is the Inner Palace, a series of elegant buildings and courtyards where the emperor lived with his family and concubines. In addition to a throne room and nuptial chamber, the buildings include libraries, temples and a theater. At the northern end of the compound is the delightful Imperial Garden (yùhuā yuán 御花园) with gnarled cypresses, scholars’ rocks and pavilions. Reflecting their separate purposes, the Garden and the Inner Palace were built on a far more human scale than the grandiose ceremonial halls: the former were designed for the emperor’s private life, the latter for his public persona as the embodiment of the state and Son of Heaven. The garden is also the only place in the palace grounds that has trees because of the importance of symbolism to the emperor. The palace grounds is in the shape of a square, think of it as a box. If the box has the Chinese character for tree inside, it becomes the character meaning imprisoned (kùn 困), not exactly an auspicious symbol for the emperor.

To the north of the garden is the exit via the north gate. Be sure to take in the spectacular view of the Forbidden City’s moat, outer wall and corner guard towers. If you want an even better view, cross Jingshan Qian Jie and climb to the top of Coal Hill (jǐng shān 景山).

Address: North of Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District 东城区天安门广场北侧
Phone: 6513 2255
Opening hours: 8:30am to 5pm
￥: 100 peak-season 80 off-season

Tian’anmen Square (tiān’ānmén guǎngchǎng 天安门广场) is the spiritual heart of the world’s most populous country. It earned this distinction by serving as the stage for momentous historical events, like the demonstrations on May 4th 1919 that inspired young Chinese to fight imperialists and warlords, and build a strong independent country. Among those swept up in the ferment of the “May Fourth Movement” was Mao Zedong who would help found the Communist Party of China two years later.

On October 1st, 1949, Mao climbed atop the “Gate of Heavenly Peace”, which gives the square its name, to proclaim the foundation of the People’s Republic of China.

In 1949, Tian’anmen Square was a narrow walled plaza, but it was expanded in the 1950’s to its present size of 400,000m². The site of major parades, the square has also played host to impromptu celebrations as when Beijing was awarded the 2008 Olympic Games in July 2001.

Most days Tian’anmen Square is filled with sightseers and kite-flyers. During national holidays, it’s usually festooned with banners and floral decorations. Many Chinese visit at dawn or dusk to see elite People’s Liberation Army troops conduct flag raising or lowering ceremonies.

On the square’s north end is the Gate of Heavenly Peace (tiān’ānmén天安门), which leads towards the Forbidden City. Above the gate hangs the famous portrait of Chairman Mao. On both sides of the gate are inscriptions in Chinese: the one on the left says, “Long Live the People’s Republic of China”; the one on the right declares, “Long Live the Unity of the People of the World.” For a panoramic view of the square, ascend to the top of the Gate, where Mao proclaimed the establishment of the PRC.

In the center of the square is the 40m-high Monument to the People’s Heroes (rénmín yīngxióng jìniànbēi 人民英雄纪念碑), an obelisk with friezes depicting revolutionary heroes and calligraphy by Mao Zedong and former Premier Zhou Enlai. South of the monument is the Chairman Mao’s Mausoleum (máozhǔxí jìniàntáng 毛主席纪念堂), where you can peer at the embalmed figure of the Great Helmsman in his glass casket. Standing guard over the square’s southern end, behind the mausoleum, is 600-year-old Qianmen (qiánmén 前门) one of the few remaining Ming-era city gates. The building on the square’s east side houses the Chinese History and Revolution Museum (zhōngguó lìshǐ bówùguǎn 中国历史博物馆).

The imposing edifice on the west side of Tian’anmen Square is the Great Hall of the People (rénmín dàhuìtáng人民大会堂). Built in a speedy 10 months in 1958 to 1959, it’s home to China’s parliament, the National People’s Congress. People with a sense of grandeur will enjoy visiting the Great Hall’s 5,000-seat banquet room and 10,000-seat auditorium, which has a large red star on the ceiling outlined by 500 light bulbs. The National Theater, a futuristic “bubble” of titanium and glass resting on an artificial lake, is being built on a site directly west of the Great Hall of the People.

Great Hall of the People rénmín dàhuìtáng人民大会堂
Address: Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District (west side of Tian’anmen Square) 东城区天安门广场(天安门广场西边)
Phone: 6608 1188
Opening hours: 8:30am to 3pm but closed during parliamentary sessions
￥: 15

Chairman Mao’s Mausoleum 毛主席纪念堂 máozhǔxí jìniàntáng
Address: south side of Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District东城区天安门广场南边
Phone: 6513 2277
Opening hours: every morning (Notice: may closed for any reasons, so just go there to check)
￥: Free, but you must pay to check-in your camera(s) and bag(s)

The Gate of Heavenly Peace天安门tiān’ānmén
Address: Chang’an Da Jie Dongcheng District (north side of Tian’anmen Square)东城区长安大街(天安门广场北边)
Phone: 6309 5718
Opening hours: 8:30am to 5pm￥: 15 (walk under Chairman Mao’s portrait to the north side of the gate to buy your ticke

For centuries Beijing has been a magnet for scholars, merchants and artists who have given it a cultural life unrivalled in China. Beijing culture is a fusion of indigenous and imported traditions since the populace has always included provincials and ethnic minorities. Another factor to consider is the impact of the city’s intellectuals on local culture. The capital has more colleges and universities than any other city in China, a reflection of its past as a center of Confucian scholarship in imperial times. This concentration of thinkers has created an enthusiastic audience for literature, painting and the performing arts. As a result, the city has many museums, galleries, theaters and music halls.

Beijing’s culture comes in many forms, from food to music, and from architecture to handicrafts. Eat Peking duck, visit the Temple of Heaven, meander in the old hutongs or check out a contemporary art show and you’ll discover a unique milieu of new and old that is Beijing culture.

Perhaps the most original expression of local culture is Peking opera (jīng jù 京剧). A multidimensional art, Peking opera blends singing, music, dancing and acrobatics. Performers wear elaborate costumes and makeup that identify their roles – from peasant to emperor, and character traits – from selfless to selfish. The singers are accompanied by orchestras made up of traditional Chinese instruments, including two-stringed fiddles erhu (èrhú 二胡) and jinghu (jīnghú 京胡), lutes, drums and gongs. Plot lines are based on famous myths, well-known stories and historical events.

Since the action can be hard for foreigners to follow, some theaters now provide English subtitles during the shows and offer abridged versions of operas. Several Beijing teahouses also stage scenes from famous operas interspersed with other traditional acts like magic shows, puppetry, and “cross-talk” (comic dialogues reminiscent of Abbott and Costello). Viewing such performances over tea and snacks is a classic Beijing experience. Many visitors likewise enjoy displays of Chinese martial arts and acrobatics, which are regularly held in local theaters.

If you want to witness local culture on a mass scale, nothing beats Beijing’s temple fairs. These are held in temples, parks and streets during the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year). Dating back to the Liao dynasty, the fairs mix the spiritual and the temporal. Families come in droves not only to burn incense and pray for good fortune, but also for the carnival atmosphere and performances. The temple fairs are gathering spots for acrobats, singers and dancers. They also attract artisans and merchants who sell an assortment of handicrafts and goods. Some fairs also offer rides and games of chance for those to try their new year’s luck. For some visitors, the best reason to come is the myriad stalls serving up savory snacks from around China. Beijing’s most popular temple fairs are held in Temple of Earth (dìtán gōngyuán 地坛公园), White Cloud Temple (báiyún guàn 白云观), and Changdian (chǎngdiàn 厂甸) in the Liulichang antiques district.