Dalian, on China’s far northeast coast, is popular with domestic travelers but is yet to be discovered by international tourists. This refreshing coastal city is the perfect antidote for those aching to get away from the congestion and pollution of China’s big cities.

Dalian is a relatively new city by Chinese standards and has grown rapidly by virtue of having an excellent natural harbor – which made it prime real-estate for the imperialist ambitions of Russia and Japan. Much of Dalian’s recent history reflects the 20th century conflicts of China. Today Dalian is a major center for shipping, logistics and fishing. The proximity to good transportation and its special economic stimulus policies have attracted a rapidly growing pool of high-tech industries. Prosperous, clean, jolly, and vibrant, it offers a stark contrast to the often-gritty realities of other northeastern cities. Even in a country where local pride runs strong, the people of Dalian stand out with a fierce pride in their city.

There are some worthwhile things to do here. Some of the beaches are nice, and its high latitude and ocean breezes help it escape some of the worst of steamy Chinese summers – that’s why the Chinese come here. There are some fine examples of classic Russian and Japanese architecture here, the seafood is excellent. Moreover, it’s just a pleasant place to be.

Beneath the hardhats-and-forklifts, workday exterior of the people of Dalian is a surprising fondness for fashion and Dalian is a major center of the fashion industry in China. The Dalian International Fashion Exhibition, held in mid-September, ranks as one of the largest fashion shows in Asia. High fashion is a large part of the daily lives of the ordinary people. Small shows are held year-round in shopping centers and parks, and they attract huge and enthusiastic crowds.

A SUMMER HEAVEN
Dalian’s greatest appeal to domestic tourists comes from its beach parks and relatively mild summers. Most famous of these is Tiger Beach (lǎohǔ tān老虎滩), which offers stunning views of the seaside cliffs. Inside the Tiger Beach area are hundreds of birds at the Niaoyu Lin (niǎoyǔlín 鸟语林), just be careful at the bird show – the birds like to pluck money from your hands. The Golden Pebble Beach National Resort (jīnshí tān guójiā lǚyóu dùjiàqū 金石滩国家旅游度假区) has an eclectic selection of activities ranging from golf to paintballing. Scuba diving is also a popular pastime; the clear waters off Dalian make for a good excursion during the summers. Dolphins are also a local resident in the waters; you might be able to catch a glimpse of them if you’re lucky. Both beaches are located northeast of the city near the booming Economic Development Zone. Swimming and other typical touristy entertainments during the warm seasons are on offer, but due to the crowds, the parks may actually be most pleasant during the off-season when you can spend some time beside the ocean without the jostling.

Other oceanfront areas can be hard to find for non-locals. They don’t have the lovely sands and the facilities of the better-developed beaches, but they can also be a pleasant experience and provide opportunities for fishing. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to get to the ocean anywhere near downtown Dalian – the harbor areas are very tightly secured – so is Lü Shun to the south, which is a naval base.

There is an interesting time to be had at the Sun-Asia Ocean World (shèngyà hǎiyáng shìjiè 圣亚海洋世界), it’s one of China’s larger aquariums with a see-through walkway built under the ocean. Another choice is the Forest Zoo (sēnlín gōngyuán森林公园). Located in the thickly wooded hills around the city, the main zoo section is pretty small and mundane. They do have some pandas, but be warned that pandas in Chinese zoos prefer to sleep rather than frolicking about. More interesting are the raccoon-like Lesser Pandas, Siberian White Tigers and other tiger species, Père David’s Deer and a few other truly unusual zoo offerings. On the other side of the zoo is a safari ride. The best part of the Forest Zoo is the enormous cable car system that offers a bedazzling view of Dalian and the natural setting in which the zoo is built. Perhaps better called the “Mountain Zoo,” traversing the zoo is a moderately arduous hike through some striking forests and hills. The Forest Zoo also has an aquarium, but in this seafood-loving city restaurants and markets offer a better assortment of live ocean life than the commercial aquariums.

Some nice places to hang out include Xinghai Park (xīnghǎi gōngyuán星海公园), located seaside and on the edge of the city and Zhongshan Square (zhōngshān guǎngchǎng中山广场), located in the heart of downtown. Zhongshan Square has a Jumbotron TV often playing movies or soccer matches or, for a really surreal experience, old Woody Woodpecker or Tom and Jerry cartoons dubbed into Mandarin. It’s not uncommon to see folk musicians, dancers, fashion shows or other entertainers here. It’s a very pleasant place to chill out and people watch, which is precisely what the locals do here. Also look out for the mounted police, Dalian’s the only city in China that has police that serve and protect on horseback, and they’re all women.