The seaside resort town of Beidaihe is famous for its beaches, while in neighboring Shanhaiguan you’ll find relics of the past in this ancient military stronghold.

While children build imperial sand castles on the beach, parents lounge around in their swimsuits and buy ice cream from one of the many street vendors. Along the beach, streets are lined with outdoor seafood restaurants, shell shops and hawkers selling their wares. In the summer months, the seaside resort town of Beidaihe, about 280km from Beijing, comes alive with wealthy Chinese families taking a break from city life. Most people come here for the beach, the sunshine and the fresh air. But there’s a lot more to Beidaihe than sun and sand – away from the beach, you’ll find ancient temples and mountain parks.

At the turn of the 19th century, Beidaihe was transformed from a tiny fishing village into a summer resort for European diplomats, missionaries and businessmen from Beijing and Tianjin. Today it has opened up to local and international tourists alike, who flock here in droves during the hottest summer months.

Beidaihe’s sandy beaches stretch for 10km along the Bohai Sea. Though the beaches are jam-packed in July and August, it’s still possible to find a few quiet coves where you can escape the crowds. The coastline is divided into three main beaches: Middle Beach (zhōng hǎitān 中海滩), East Mountain (dōng shān 东山) and West Beach (xī hǎitān 西海滩). Of the three beaches, Middle Beach (which is made up of many small beaches, separated by rocky outcrops) is the most popular and it’s easy to find drinks, snacks and souvenirs – and be bombarded by hackers pushing bracelets and shells. West Beach is similar, though a little quieter. East Mountain features long stretches of beach where you can bask in some hard-to-find privacy. Tiger Rocks (lǎohǔ shí老虎石), in the central beach area, is a popular spot for locals to gather and fish, fly kites and unwind. From a distance, the rocks look like a group of tigers bathing in the sea. Pigeon’s Nest (gēzi wō 鸽子窝) over at East Mountain is a good spot to catch the sunrise as it slowly peers over the sea’s horizon.

Lianfeng Mountain (liánfēng shān 联峰山) stands 153m above sea level and is covered in pines and cypress trees. This small mountain has two adjoining peaks and backs onto the beach, features pavilions, walking paths and winding bridges. The Sea-Viewing Pavilion (wànghǎi tíng 望海亭) has great views of the Bohai Sea. At the base of the mountain is Lotus Stone Park (liánhuāshí gōngyuán 莲花石公园), named after several upright rocks in the shape of a lotus flower. In the northern end of the park is the Guanyin Temple (guānyīn sì 观音寺). It’s close to downtown Beidaihe and most local hotels offer direct shuttles to the park.

Because Beidaihe’s relative fame and the crowds it draws, the beaches have become overcrowded. Nandaihe, to the south, is also a well-developed tourist destination, offering, among other activities, sand sledding – some of which end in the water.

While the best beaches are in Beidaihe, the best historical sites are in neighboring Shanhaiguan, a small, sleepy town with a bloody past. Situated between the Bohai Sea and the Yanshan Mountains, Shanhaiguan was a military stronghold during the Ming dynasty and served as a major pass in the eastern section of the Great Wall. It was considered a key location for the defense of the ancient capitals of Beijing and Xi’an from northern invaders. You can still get a sense of the town’s history with its old city walls, small hutongs and views of the Great Wall winding its way up the Yanshan Mountains or in the opposite direction, plunging into the Bohai Sea.

The First Pass Under Heaven (tiānxià dìyī guān 天下第一关), also known as the Eastern Gate or Shanhai Pass, was once the final barrier preventing the northern tribes from encroaching into Beijing. An inscription over the arched gate reads “The First Pass Under Heaven” in bold Chinese characters 1.6m high, left behind by Ming calligraphist Xiao Xian. The gate features a 12m high wall and a two-storey, double-roofed tower built in 1381. The tower features 68 archery slots facing north, east and south, giving archers a clear line of sight to shoot any invaders. The gate also features an exhibition of weaponry, military uniforms and traditional costumes.

Just outside of town is Old Dragon’s Head (lǎo lóngtóu 老龙头), where the Great Wall meets the sea. This is the eastern most point of the Great Wall, where a stone-carved dragon head once faced the sea. The original wall was badly damaged by the Eight-Power Allied Forces in 1900, but the area was restored back to its former glory in 1987. Now, it’s a major tourist site, complete with a restored city, pagodas, towers and small museum – even a maze. Old Dragon’s Head, which stretches 23m into the sea, is surrounded by pretty beaches, which are only accessible if you pay the admission price into the site. It’s easily reached by bus or taxi, but it’s more interesting to ride a bike or go for a bumpy jaunt in an auto-rickshaw.